Our Little Guide to Provincetown, Massachusetts
Provincetown is very possibly the gayest place on the face of the earth, and I mean that in every sense of the word. Yes, the town has what seems like a predominantly LGBT crowd, so if you are horrifyingly homophobic this may not be the place for you, but it is also gay in the happiest of ways. Not once did I hear a car horn, or someone yelling angrily.
Reflecting on it now, Provincetown is a super upbeat cultural enclave with some of the friendliest people I have ever met, and the food here is to die for.
There is plenty to be had for everyone here. Visit galleries, eat your face off, go to the beach, write your next great novel — all in the cards in Provincetown.
Seaglass Inn and Spa
Somewhere between motel and boutique hotel, this quiet spot near the end of Cape Cod is a great place to call home for a few days. It's a 10-15 minute walk back to Provincetown's Commercial Street and a 20-30 minute bike ride to Race Point Beach. Nearby restaurants include Victor's and Devon's — both excellent stops along the way. Seaglass also has a good supply of coffee and snacks on hand in the reception area throughout the day.
Beachfront Cabin in Truro
If hotels aren't your thing, there are plenty of cabins for rent in nearby Truro. Some of them are a notch above camping, but that's the charm, and the sunrises are well worth it. You're looking at 30-40 minutes on the bike to commute in to Provincetown, or about 10 minutes by car.
By far the best grab and go breakfast we found in Provincetown. Awesome lunch here too. If you're fussy, grab some baked goods to go and mosey over to Kohi for Java.
This was by far the most inspired coffee joint on the main drag here. Excellent pour overs and expertly prepared espresso drinks. There isn't much seating, but if you're lucky, you can snag the window seat for a morning of oceanside email replying.
The Lobster Roll here is something else. They will ask you how you want it so be sure to specify with melted butter. You may be on the pulmonary shortlist after, but hey, you only live once.
Pop + Dutch
Great sandwiches and culinary fare to go. I particularly liked the Agent Dale Cooper sandwich. They also sell provisions like sunscreen, lube, condoms, and whiffle ball bats.
Dinner & Drinks
Joon Bar and Restaurant
My personal favourite restaurant in Provincetown and simply one of the best dining experiences I have ever had. Creativity meets exceptional service and ingredients. There is not much more that you could ask for.
The food here is excellent, and better yet you can enjoy it while sitting at a boat shaped bar. Cocktails are spot on, and the room has a nice maritime touch. Brunch here is allegedly a must-do also.
Located on the second floor of Whaler's Wharf, Ross' is one of the most recommended places in town. Casual dining meats exceptional drink is how I would describe this place, and an ocean view bar makes for an inspiring setting.
Crown and Anchor
Show tunes, live piano, comedy, you name it, this is a great spot for a drink and some entertainment. It is a gay bar by definition, but any persuasion should feel welcome here.
Another popular drink spot on the late evening Provincetown circuit. They often have live music and a lively crowd. The ocean view patio is a bonus if you happen to be here earlier in the evening.
I personally found the service here a bit surly, but the pizza was decent, and in a town that doesn't seem to serve food past 9:30-10pm, this might be your best choice.
Race Point Beach
Sunsets at Race Point are a tourist haven, but actually well worth it. Standing at the edge of a continent always brings a special vibe, and this is a place to revel in the days end festivities. By day, the beach is also a great place to lounge about and have a relaxing time. There is plenty of parking, but as an alternative consider cycling.
Biking the Provincelands Trail
Gale Force Bikes can equip you with the necessary bike and equipment. The rest is up to you. Biking through the dunes of the cape is no extraordinary feat, but if you are an unseasoned cyclist give yourself an hour to get to Race Point.
Shop Commercial Street
Provincetown is a fashionable place. Upon finding out that I was Canadian, one of the shopkeepers continuously referred to me as his "little mountie." Need I say more?
Art Gallery Hopping
There are a wide variety of boutique galleries in this town. The east end is particularly good for door-to-door art shopping.
- Ride your bike, or park far away. Parking is available at MacMillan Pier for a price. Get their early to avoid the lines.
For Next Time
There is always something we missed. Here are the places we regrettably did not get to see.
Chris Stenberg is a Canadian travel photographer, filmmaker and researcher. When he’s not wielding a camera or raising a family you can find him running, biking and boarding in the mountains or eating an apple under a tree in an orchard.